Plant in the Correct Spot

The first step to ensuring that your roses thrive is to plant them in a section of your garden that receives at least six hours of full sunlight each day. Unfortunately, no rose varieties will survive in full shade conditions – but a few will tolerate partial shade. Roses that are grown in areas that are too shady will not flower as much as those that receive a lot of sunshine, and they will also be more prone to suffer from disease and pest problems.

Choose the Right Varieties

Each rose variety will perform differently, so it’s essential to choose those that will be most suited to the climate in your area. If you live in the South, you’ll need to choose varieties that thrive in hot and humid summer weather, and gardeners in the North will do better choosing those that are hardier than average.

If you’re unsure of the varieties that will do well in your garden, your local nursery or garden center will be able to assist you. Alternatively, our professional landscapers will be able to provide you with information in this regard as well.

Use the Correct Soil and Mulch

Roses must be planted in soil that is rich and drains well. When planting them, mix some organic matter such as ground bark or compost into the soil that will be used to fill the hole afterward.

It’s recommended to add a two- to three-inch layer of organic, coarse mulch around your newly planted roses. This goes a long way in helping to reduce the chances of foliage diseases developing because it prevents a lot of water from splashing directly on to the leaves.

Water them Correctly

Most rose varieties will do well if they are given approximately one inch of water per week during their growing season. However, if your soil is sandier than average, watering may need to be done a little more frequently.

Pruning is Important

Roses should be pruned during early spring unless they are a variety that only blooms once a year – these should be pruned right after they have finished blooming.

The Right Equipment is Crucial

Before attempting to trim hedges on your property, ensure that you have these items on hand:

Thick gloves made from either leather or another extremely sturdy material. You’ll certainly be grateful for these after seeing the number of thorns that some hedges have
A large piece of tarp. When laid down around the area that’s going to be cut, it will make cleanup a lot easier because most of the trimmings will land on it
Safety glasses or goggles. These will protect your eyes against flying wood chips that could cause serious eye injury
Hand clipper. This should have a good grip and feel comfortable in your hand. If it’s too big or too small, it can cause blisters to develop
Electric or gas-powered hedge trimmer. This will save a lot of time, especially if you’re trimming a hedge that’s larger than a few feet long. It can also help get into those spots that are difficult to access by hand

Prune before Hot Weather Arrives

In most cases, it’s recommended that you trim hedges in late winter because they will not have produced new buds as yet. If you trim off buds that have formed, it will cause the hedge to take a lot longer to fill out again. If your hedge is of a flowering variety, it’s recommended that you hold off on the pruning until the day after its blooms have started turning brown.

Trim Narrower at the Top 

After being left unattended for a while, most hedges will become wider at the top than the bottom because they receive the most sunlight on the top. However, this causes them to grow in a “V” formation, which will not only look unsightly; it will also cause the rest of the hedge to produce less foliage and look scraggly. When trimming hedges, ensure that the top is left narrower so that sufficient sunlight can reach the lower sections as well.

Remove any Dead blooms and Debris

Over time, debris such as twigs, leaves, and dead flower heads will accumulate among your prized flowerbeds and these can cause a fair bit of damage when the heavy rains arrive. Ensuring that all accumulated debris is removed will help prevent it from becoming tangled among your flowers and damaging them or worse – uprooting them.

Ensure Adequate Drainage is Available

Water that accumulates around your flowerbeds can quickly cause plants to drown, so proper drainage is essential. Ensure that there is proper runoff available that slopes away from your flowerbeds and that nothing is blocking it.

Support Taller Plants

If you have taller plants among your flowers, it’s strongly recommended that these be given a little additional support before the spring rains arrive. This can involve pushing items such as metal supports, wooden stakes or virtually any other long, sturdy item into the ground next to these plants and tying it onto the longer stems. Doing this will prevent the longer plants from being washed over and causing damage to the flowers below them.

Provide Root Protection

Your flower’s roots will need to be protected during heavy downpours and one of the best ways to do this is by mulching around them. Mulch should be approximately two to three inches thick, but at the same time, it must be kept away from the flower heads and leaves.

Turn Off Sprinkler Systems

If you have an automated sprinkler system throughout your yard and garden, you may want to consider turning it off before the heavy rains arrive. Flowerbeds that receive too much water will result in plant roots becoming waterlogged – which will cause them to die.

What does Hardiness Zone 5 Mean?

Various hardiness zones are basic guidelines released by the USDA with regards to the types of plants that will be able to survive and even thrive in a specific part of the country. Chicago is classified as zone 5, meaning that plants in the area will be able to withstand winter temperatures that are no lower than -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Plants that are deemed to be hardy in zones 5 through 8 can be grown in zones 5, 6, 7 and 8, but would most likely not survive the colder temperatures experienced in zone 4 areas or lower.

Creeping Phlox

These flowers produce a colorful display of various pastel shades and very little expert knowledge is needed to care for them. If you’re looking for a cascading plant option or something that can act as a groundcover, look no further because Creeping Phlox can be grown over rockeries as well as in challenging soil conditions.

Wild Violets

This is another plant that will virtually be able to care for itself after being planted and watered occasionally. Although the most common of these plants has purple-blue flowers, some varieties are known to have yellow or white blooms as well. In some areas, wild violets are considered as being annuals or biennials. However, they are known to self-seed and come back in various unexpected locations throughout your garden.

Hollyhocks

These pretty flowers have been known to reach heights of up to 9 feet tall, so they have the ability to provide a unique vertical element to the rest of your garden. Hollyhocks are a fairly short-lived perennial flower, so most varieties will only be in your garden for about two to three years at most. However, if they are thriving in your garden, they will easily reseed over time.

Kentucky bluegrass

This is by far one of the most popular grass varieties being used in many parts of Illinois, mainly because it’s extremely hard, highly appealing to the eye and it recovers quite quickly. Most varieties of Kentucky bluegrass will however require fairly high levels of maintenance over time in the form of fertilizing and regular watering, and while many varieties of this grass prefer full sun, a few of them have been known to tolerate light shade.

Buffalo grass

Buffalo grass forms quite a dense turf and thick sod and it is known to spread quite extensively by means of its horizontal, root-forming stems. One of the main advantages of this grass is that it requires very little watering and fertilizing – too much of either of these will in fact encourage weeds to grow. Although standard Buffalo grass often has a fairly short growth period in zone 5, newer varieties have since become available that are able to establish themselves quicker.

Perennial ryegrasses

These are bunching varieties of grass that are compatible with bluegrass, don’t form thatch, are considered to be drought-resistant, and have quite good tolerance to heat. Although these grasses are best suited for full sun areas, they have been known to tolerate small amounts of shade. Perennial ryegrasses provide an aesthetically appealing dark green color to yards and its fine texture makes it easy to mow and maintain.

Purple Love grass

This native bunchgrass forms tight, neat clumps and it spreads by means of underground rhizomes and the sheer amount of seeds that it drops onto the ground. Purple love grass is finely textured and remains green throughout spring and summer while becoming covered with purple seed-containing plumage. When fall arrives, its leaves change color to purple and the flowers to white. This grass prefers full sun exposure but has been known to grow in partial shade as well.